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Tuning weight power torque

c4ppucinoc4ppucino Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 2 Posts
Hello, new guy here.

Like in the title, I'm a bit confused by weight (reduction), power, or torque of a specific part.

First, from real life facts, afaik, power = higher top speed, torque = bigger acceleration, but I read in a post somewhere that in RR power doesn't really increase max speed of a car. For example, Evo VIII will always top out at 139mph, regardless of the power. So what does power really do in the game?

Second, I understand that less weight equals bigger acceleration, but in what correlation with power and torque? In other words, which one should I go for?

For example, which one of these pro parts should I go for (fictional parts)?

Part 1
Weight (0.00)
Power (+0.65)
Torque (+0.65)

or

Part 2:
Weight (+2.00)
Power (+2.75)
Torque (+2.80)

If there's a formula for calculating the ratios, can anybody post/teach me?

Third, a bit off title, but does getting bigger diameter wheels (around 21" or 22") make my car go faster?

Fourth, I noticed that all pro suspensions (at least the ones on my car) add weights. The lightest seems to be the stage 2 part. So are the pro suspensions beneficial?

Thank you in advance

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    james614james614 Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 179 Posts
    Okay, first off, power doesn't directly affect top speed. Max RPM, final drive ratio, and having enough power to overcome drag are the factors that effect top speed. The Evo's top speed in game is limited because the upgrades in the game do not increase Max RPM like they would in real life. Horsepower is just a calculation of torque and RPM to determine the amount of work the engine can do.

    Secondly, get all that complexity out of your head. Unlike real life, the vehicles in-game have a fixed torque curve. All the upgrades increase both torque and power by the same percentage all the way through the power band (which is extremely unrealistic, but most games seem to take this approach, even some that call themselves simulators).

    Thirdly, to determine which is most beneficial between weight and power, calculate the power to weight ratio the car will have with each upgrade. For example, if Pro A will leave the car with a final weight of 3248.50lbs and 373.45hp, it'll have 8.6986209667lbs per HP. If Pro B will give it 3246.00lbs and 372.00hp, it will have 8.7258064516lbs per HP. Since you want the lowest pounds per horsepower, Pro A is your best choice.
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    c4ppucinoc4ppucino Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 2 Posts
    james614 said:

    Okay, first off, power doesn't directly affect top speed. Max RPM, final drive ratio, and having enough power to overcome drag are the factors that effect top speed. The Evo's top speed in game is limited because the upgrades in the game do not increase Max RPM like they would in real life. Horsepower is just a calculation of torque and RPM to determine the amount of work the engine can do.



    Secondly, get all that complexity out of your head. Unlike real life, the vehicles in-game have a fixed torque curve. All the upgrades increase both torque and power by the same percentage all the way through the power band (which is extremely unrealistic, but most games seem to take this approach, even some that call themselves simulators).



    Thirdly, to determine which is most beneficial between weight and power, calculate the power to weight ratio the car will have with each upgrade. For example, if Pro A will leave the car with a final weight of 3248.50lbs and 373.45hp, it'll have 8.6986209667lbs per HP. If Pro B will give it 3246.00lbs and 372.00hp, it will have 8.7258064516lbs per HP. Since you want the lowest pounds per horsepower, Pro A is your best choice.

    Hey, thank you very much for the answer.

    So in a nutshell, it's weight divided by power, and go for the lowest value possible? I'll try this asap.

    What about the wheel diameter? Do bigger wheels equal faster car/shorter ET?
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    OFF ROAD HEMI2OFF ROAD HEMI2 Registered Users 1,011 Posts
    Larger wheels are cosmetic only.
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    james614james614 Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 179 Posts
    Two things to keep in mind, most cars do not need the Pro NOS bottle, it will just add weight as they won't run through the stage 2 bottle during a race.

    Also, superchargers usually appear to offer the better weight to power ratio, but the follow-on upgrades for each almost always fall into the turbo's favor if you're going for a high rating or maxing out the car.
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    OFF ROAD HEMI2OFF ROAD HEMI2 Registered Users 1,011 Posts
    ^^^^ I agree with that.
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    CARBDRIFT1539CARBDRIFT1539 Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 147 Posts
    edited August 2015
    ..
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    CARBDRIFT1539CARBDRIFT1539 Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 147 Posts
    james614 said:


    Thirdly, to determine which is most beneficial between weight and power, calculate the power to weight ratio the car will have with each upgrade. For example, if Pro A will leave the car with a final weight of 3248.50lbs and 373.45hp, it'll have 8.6986209667lbs per HP. If Pro B will give it 3246.00lbs and 372.00hp, it will have 8.7258064516lbs per HP. Since you want the lowest pounds per horsepower, Pro A is your best choice.


    awww. .crap.. ive been doing it backwards all this time.. f**k me.. ugh.. i need to go back and redo all my tunes then..
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    CARBDRIFT1539CARBDRIFT1539 Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 147 Posts
    hang on now, now on the sticky post called "Tuning Spreadsheet (EASY TUNING)" a person by the name of Jack Sparrow, had posted that in doing it you want to select the one with the highest number. so which is actually correct, should it be the highest or the lowest ??
    but when i figure mine, unless im doing it wrong when i figure:
    pro a
    3248 lbs and 373.45 hp i get 0.1149784
    pro b
    3246 lbs and 372 hp, i get 0.1146026
    so in this i was picking pro a, so maybe we are coming up with selecting the same part just different math??
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    OFF ROAD HEMI2OFF ROAD HEMI2 Registered Users 1,011 Posts
    You want the lowest number calculated
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    james614james614 Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 179 Posts
    I was dividing weight by power (3248/373.45). This gives you pounds per HP, where you wants the lowest number.

    In the example you just gave, it appears you were dividing power by weight (373.45/3248), which would gives HP per pound, in which case you want the highest number.

    It doesn't matter which you do, so long as you're aware of what the number actually means.
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    CARBDRIFT1539CARBDRIFT1539 Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 147 Posts
    james614 said:


    In the example you just gave, it appears you were dividing power by weight (373.45/3248), which would gives HP per pound, in which case you want the highest number.



    It doesn't matter which you do, so long as you're aware of what the number actually means.

    ok, thank you @james614 makes me feel better that all my tuning wasn't for nothing. thanks for clearing it up.
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    james614james614 Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 179 Posts
    edited August 2015
    When it comes to the best tune for a certain rating, well that's a whole 'nother ballgame. I use the weight/power method for maxing out the car. When tuning to a rating, AFAIK there is no one method to go by because each car has its own tricks and you've pretty much just gotta try different things. Things like the transmission upgrades (effecting shift time) and to NOS or not to NOS seem to vary hugely from car to car.
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    OFF ROAD HEMI2OFF ROAD HEMI2 Registered Users 1,011 Posts
    For a turf tune I do tire, max all drivetrain (except axle), weight reduction and suspension. After that I install the largest power to weight gain parts until I get close to desired rating. Then I install minimal gain parts until I hit my rating. I test them in turf (because lobbies are capped). I keep installing until I am in the next lobby. Then uninstall the last part. Maybe not the best approach but I stay competitive.
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    james614james614 Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 179 Posts
    edited August 2015
    That's similar to what I do. With my 2000 Impreza Coupe I'm competive. With my Evo 8 it put me just below average. With the 2015 Mustang they completely wiped the floor with me, I didn't win one race that wasn't a foul or a spin. Since turf restrictions don't repeat themselves that often I haven't been back around to re-eval the not so great ones yet.
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    zkaiserzkaiser Registered Users 20 Posts
    I do the same as Off Road Hemi2 with a slight deviation. I start with tires, weight, suspension, transmission, and then I start looking at weight and power. Sometime,, doing the differential and other drivetrain parts aren't worth doing early on especially when rrc or gems are tight, and depending on cost of parts for certain cars. But I do then go to certain engine parts and exhaust first, then intake and decide either rturbo or supercharger and i only use Nos when maximum tune is my goal. I get my car as close to the lobby tune I want or over it and work up or down as necessary to get that tune rank and then I squeeze in lowest rated parts until the lobby changes. Then go back and uninstall the lowest of the last three or four parts installed in order of lowest power one at a time until I'm back in the corect lobby.
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    DozerboyDozerboy Registered Users 213 Posts
    I haven't found that how you tune maters at all. Now there might be some that are better, but as long as your max out for the lobby you will be competitive. Now knowing how to drive each car makes for a turf killer.
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    TheFastKidxXx69TheFastKidxXx69 Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 10 Posts
    anyone know how to calculate car rating on a per part base? like if I upgraded pistons to lvl 2, what increase will I get on my car's rating?
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    1967ChevelleSS1967ChevelleSS Unregistered / Not Logged In, Registered Users 82 Posts
    @TheFastKidxXx60 - you'd have to run some pretty sophisticated statistics to figure out how much each component contributes to the overall rating, which almost certainly can not be done on a spreadsheet like Excell
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    DozerboyDozerboy Registered Users 213 Posts
    I tune more by damage. I want to get X # of races and points out of a car, so I add parts until I get in that area then I use trans and weight to put it in the lobby I want and fine tune it with more or less damage.
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    sixpoint1srt8sixpoint1srt8 Registered Users 35 Posts
    Thanks u guys for the info.
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    WOLFENSTAINWOLFENSTAIN Registered Users 1 Posts
    helo. can anyone tell me what is lbs for ?
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    mopardwhmopardwh Registered Users 236 Posts
    null
    Not true @Dozerboy you can have 2 of the same cars, with same rating and be a second apart in some cases.

    @WOLFENSTAIN LBS=pounds
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    DozerboyDozerboy Registered Users 213 Posts
    mopardwh said:

    null

    Not true @Dozerboy you can have 2 of the same cars, with same rating and be a second apart in some cases.

    .... Not sure what your saying. Yes if you have a low 1650 and a high 1650 the high will be faster...., but that wouldn't be fine tuned.... I have the same cars same ratting some with turbos, supers, all motor, and NOS. They all run close to the same.
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    cucho1cucho1 Registered Users 150 Posts
    So how about the carbon fiber and body kits....do they actually affect the cars best et or wat
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    DozerboyDozerboy Registered Users 213 Posts
    Less weight is faster
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    FAST_FREDDIE001FAST_FREDDIE001 Registered Users 94 Posts
    null
    I'm with you on power to weight being ineffective in this game. Z28 1656 for example. I built a tune that was well over 930 hp and somewhere in the 2800 lb area and best I could do boosted was 9.2, I bought a tune that made mid upper 800 hp and we'll over 3000 lbs and ran 8.95.
    IGN Ecoboosted TT
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    XenoXeno Registered Users 2,139 Posts
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    Roush SportRoush Sport Registered Users, Moderators 1,485 Posts
    edited January 2017
    This might be worth reading as well, as there is a bit of useful info here.
    http://forums.racingrivals.com/rivals/discussion/5370861/apparently/p1

    Also, in regards to how much a part changes a car's rating...I attempted to figure that out once, however, it was before they changed the caps on the lobbies. One thing that I realized though - the amount a part affects the rating of a car changes not only from car to car, but also is contingent on other parts that are already installed. That, and unfortunately the rating is only shown as a whole number. So, if a part adds, for example, 1.5 points to the rating, there is no real way to see that.

    Quick example - I had a car that I installed a stage 1 trans on...made the rating go up 1 point. I then returned it to stock, installed weight reduction stage 1. That made the rating go up 2 points. I then re-installed the transmission just to test to see if it would still only add 1 point...and to my surprise, it made the rating go up 2 more points. At that point, I was like "well, is the stage 1 trans worth 1 rating point, or 2?" You can test / try this out for yourself.

    I was all about trying to come up with an excel sheet that took all aspects of a part into account - weight, torque, power, and rating influence - and would then be able to provide you with the best part options for any specific rating you wanted. All you would have had to do was select which car you were upgrading, and then tell it what rating you wanted the car to end up at - and it would then tell you which parts to install. Unfortunately, though, due to that rating variable that I discovered as well as a few other things, I wasn't able to get it to work right. That, and I would have had to build a sheet for each car, as while the parts available for each car are the same....the power / weight/ torque numbers provided by each part change from car to car. I ended up very frustrated, and gave up on the idea.
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